Why some of NYC’s most popular restaurants are ditching al fresco dining

The sheds are falling apart, and the sooner they destroy everything, the better.

NYC’s street eateries are quietly on the “show your vaccination card” route at some of the hottest and most famous eateries, a Post survey has shown. It’s time!

I’m not talking about the city’s belated crackdown on dangerous or unused shantytown shacks that house nearly 200 scum, including East 1st Street Pinkie, who had the audacity to sue the city over it.

I am referring to the unannounced, wholly voluntary demolitions by the owners who have found that the buildings (not to mention the neighbors) are shunned and despised by the clients. Once essential, they are now too expensive to operate and maintain for too few visitors. In addition, they are a breeding ground for vagrants and parasites.

Canopies have recently collapsed quietly at top establishments including Buddakan, Keen’s Steakhouse, Locanda Verde, BLT Prime, Tao Downtown, Tsuru TonTan and Cellini. This is despite construction costs of up to $100,000.


Street restaurants in New York are slowly disappearing, and restaurant critic Steve Cuozzo is very happy about this.
Street restaurants in New York are slowly disappearing, and restaurant critic Steve Cuozzo is very happy about this.

Now he is gone. "It's time to rip off the band-aid" said
Keen’s Steakhouse on 36th Street used to have a wooden barn that ran along the block.
ZUMAPRESS.com

Now he is gone. "It's time to take off the band-aid,
Now he is gone. “It’s time to take off the band-aid,” the manager said.

Uptown’s revamped Noz Market returns this week after temporarily closing without the tool shed-like counter that East 75th Street once had.

More modest places like Blue Mezze on the Upper East Side, Canyon Road and Finnegan’s Wake cut their barns in half.

“Very few people use them now, no matter how sophisticated they are,” said veteran restaurant consultant Shelly Clark. “In order to properly maintain these facilities, additional staff is often required, which is expensive and not easy to find. It’s the perfect storm that destroys barns.


The corner of Greenwich and North Moor in Tribeca is cleaner without the old Locanda Verde barn.
The corner of Greenwich and North Moor in Tribeca is cleaner without the old Locanda Verde barn.

Andrew Righe, president of the New York City Hospitality Alliance, attributed the decline in owners’ zeal to being “very disappointed” that they don’t know when the city will announce the canopy rules, which were put in place as emergency measures during the indoor dining ban at 2020. and 2021.

The rage to tear them down began early last year in Japan’s popular udon noodle mecca, Tsuru TonTan, which is located on East 16th and West 48th Streets. “We were unable to please our guests with external conditions such as loud noise and the scenery was not the most beautiful,” said partner Joji Uematsu.

Most recently, a BLT Prime favorite at the top of Lexington Avenue removed its half-block-long canopy after a driver slammed his car into it, leaving it too damaged to keep up.


"Good riddance," said restaurant owner Dino Arpaia to Cellini's al fresco dining in Midtown.
“Good riddance,” said owner Dino Arpaia of Cellini’s open-air eatery in Midtown.

The car that crashed into the shed in front of Cellini on East 54th Street was also the final straw for owner Dino Arpay, who collected the remains this week. In addition, he was tired of tramps and drug addicts sneaking around at night.

“Good riddance,” said Arpaia.

Basta Pasta on West 17th Street leveled its barn a few months ago when “nobody wanted it and it created too many problems,” one employee said.

Legendary West 36th Street steakhouse Keen’s demolished its street shack in November, adorned with cheap nods to atmospheric centennial eateries. “It’s time to take off the band-aid,” the manager said. (Now, if only the nearest Rag Trade would take the hint.)


Finnegans Wake on the Upper East Side used to have a more spacious outdoor dining structure.
Finnegans Wake on the Upper East Side used to have a more spacious outdoor dining structure.
Robert Miller

Now the space has shrunk.
Now the space has shrunk.

In the city center, Stephen Starr’s giant Buddhacan has already pulled out its beautiful outdoor seating setup. “No one else wanted to sit in an aviary in cold weather. Upkeep was also expensive,” Starr Restaurants COO Brandon Vergeles said.

Gone is the shed at Andrew Carmellini’s Locanda Verde in Tribeca. “Cold-weather demand was down a bit,” explained Managing Partner Luke Ostrom. “That, and the structures made mostly of wood, have fallen into disrepair over the last couple of years.”

He said he hoped to “recreate” the street cafe “during the warm season based on [still-awaited] updated city rules and regulations.


The old Buddakan Orphanage in Chelsea has now fallen out of sight.
The old Buddakan Orphanage in Chelsea has now fallen out of sight.
Richard B. Levin/Newscom/MEGA

More in the near future. Michael’s, the media mecca on West 55th Street, plans to demolish an outdoor barn in the spring (although not other outdoor seating areas).

Good luck to those who are waiting for help from the city with the new rules:. The program will not be announced until 2024.

To get an idea of ​​what the owners will then face, consider that the entire bureaucracy of the city hall makes life hell even for sidewalk booths, which are less problematic than those located on the street.


Cuozzo wishes good luck to all the restaurateurs waiting for new rules for awnings - the city doesn't issue them until next year.
Cuozzo wishes good luck to all the restaurateurs waiting for new rules for awnings – the city doesn’t issue them until next year.

The bureaucracy helped destroy the pavement at Gabriel Kroyter’s two-Michelin-star home on West 42nd Street, which looked like a tiny village. Partner Eben Dorros said the ever-changing and conflicting rules from the agency’s alphabet soup proved impossible to enforce.

“The worst part was that there was no one to call,” Dorros said.

Yes, sheds are still popular and important to businesses in certain locations.

“Many people want to eat outdoors, especially families with children,” said Il Gattopardo owner Gianfranco Sorrentino, who outfitted his comfortable tent with tablecloths, functional heating and proper ventilation.

But the new requirements will likely bring straitjacket designs down to “single” standards — and possibly ban wooden structures altogether.

This could mean the end of several truly enchanting creative treasures such as Midtown’s Fresco by Scotto, West Village’s Don Angie and Tribeca’s Tamarind.

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