The Best New Orleans-Style Sandwich You’ve Never Tasted Is Coming to Town
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Gumbo, po-boys, and beignets are some of New Orleans’ most famous culinary exports. sleep beat. This may not be the case in San Francisco for a long time. This March, Peterson Harter and Moni Fraling are planning to build a brick house on Haight Street for their iconic pop-up Sandy’s.
As first reported by Eater, the sandwich shop will be located steps away from Harter and Frayling’s apartment in Haight Ashbury, next to the longtime hangout Pork Store, in the same store where they first launched their latest pop-up, Bread Spread Pickle.
Harter told The Standard that he is thrilled to spread the gospel of the muffuletta, the staple food of the Sicilian community in New Orleans. At the turn of the century, millions of Italian immigrants arrived in the US through the port of New Orleans, bringing with them a culinary influence that continues to influence the foodie city to this day. Sicilian immigrants created the muffuletta as an economical and satisfying way to feed farmers in the French market.
The presence of New Orleans cuisine in San Francisco may seem like a transplant, but Southern food traditions have a much longer history in the Bay Area. New Orleans cooking first came to the city during the Great Migration in the late 1800s. The transcontinental railroad established a direct link between NOLA and Oakland. There are a few gumbo shops dotted around the bay and a few places to find po’boys, but the muffuletta is still under-represented. Harter and Frayling are here to change that.
However, raising money to open a restaurant in San Francisco is not an easy task. Like many other independent restaurateurs, Harter and Freiling found it useful to use pop-ups to gauge interest and sustainability. Harter said he now has confidence in Sandy’s success as a salesperson.
“We have already tested the water,” he said. “Haight has a lot of potential and I see it really gaining momentum here.”
Part of that success is down to Sandy’s eponymous sandwich, which Harter says many Bay Area residents are still unfamiliar with. “I like to say that the muffuletta is the illegitimate cousin of the pub,” he said. “A lot of people here take their first bite and think, ‘Oh shit,’ like, they’re having a moment of epiphany.”
Harter and Fraling worked with Firebrand Artisan Breads in Oakland to develop their own muffuletta bread. Unlike many other mufuletta shops, they press their sandwiches into paninos. This starting point required some persuasion from Harter. “When we first started, I hesitated to put it in the press,” he explained. “But it’s a big sandwich and it’s hard to eat without pressing. Panini makes the olive salad more expressive. The next day is better because the bread really absorbs the olives.”
He said he’s excited about Sandy’s debut in the Hayte because he believes the historic countercultural district is San Francisco’s closest analogue to the strange and wonderful energy of New Orleans.
Sandy’s likely won’t open Feb. 21, Mardi Gras Day, but Harter said he hopes to bring a little more of his hometown to San Francisco, eventually partnering with Haight Ashbury Street Fair to do what Crescent City does. does best – take a gala party in the streets.
“That will come with time,” Harter said.
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1457 Haight Street, San Francisco
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texasstandard.news contributed to this report.