Mark Badgley and James Mishka bring elegance to the table

Sarah SmithFebruary 23, 2023

Full-length flash photograph of the model standing backstage wearing a light blue bow-shaped velvet top and a long pleated black velvet dress.

Mark Badgley and James Mishka were cool, calm and collected backstage at the Spring Studios gallery. Their latest ready-to-wear collection for New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023 had everyone buzzing around them, with dressers sewing the final details onto models – one model even stood with her arms outstretched as a woman grabbed her hem. dress with Elmer’s glue stick and liquid spray.

The two designers stood together, watching the models and urging everyone to walk up in line to take pictures before they made their way up the stairs to the sixth floor. Upstairs, guests took their seats on benches arranged around the runway, which had a lone island stretching across the middle of the room, complete with miniature matte black table lamps and matching bar stools.

A quick photo of a model with slicked back brown hair facing the camera, wearing a beaded pastel pink top and large, sparkly flower-shaped earrings. — Backstage at Badgley Mischka Fall/Winter 2023 New York Fashion Week. (Ryan Rogers for WSN)

Flash shot of a model with curly blond hair looking at the camera wearing a glittery silver top and a matching glittery hair clip. — Backstage at Badgley Mischka Fall/Winter 2023 New York Fashion Week. (Ryan Rogers for WSN)

The sculptural nature of Badgley and Mishka prioritizes movement, and the opening of the show was no exception: the lights were dimmed and real mannequins floated past the audience with unrivaled elegance this season. Each model may have walked the runway, but the fabrics floated, first to the rhythm of classical notes, and then, with a quick transition, to artist Il Quadro di Troisi’s sweet Italian melody “Real”.

A quick shot of a model with slicked back black hair putting on a shiny red blazer. — Backstage at Badgley Mischka Fall/Winter 2023 New York Fashion Week. (Ryan Rogers for WSN)

The brand played on the concepts of the Italian futurists, describing how the designers’ belief in romantic futurism was reflected in the fluid, dynamic lines of the collection. A note left on each seat stated that clothing should “bring new and permanent pleasure”, and this idea was celebrated in each ensemble, each fitting the body while remaining couture in a sleek cut.

A model walks the runway in a black velvet bow-shaped top, a navy blue mini dress, black heeled shoes and sparkly blue earrings.

The model walks the runway in a tight black dress with a spectacular bow on the belt and black shoes.

A model walks the runway in a black ruffled dress, black and silver glitter gloves and black heels.

A model walks the runway in a sparkly black long-sleeved dress and black heels.

A model walks the runway in a shiny black puff sleeve top, a long fitted black silk skirt and black heels.

A model walks the runway in a black feather top, a long black silk skirt and black heels.

The fabrics used were also unusual: all materials were either liquid, cobweb, or structured. Technical fibers complemented classic georgette and satin silhouettes, while velvet platform pumps added playfulness to the strict structure of each look. The palette was obviously rooted in five elements: earth in shades of emerald, metal in the form of obsidian and steel, fire in the form of bloodstone, water in shades of the velvety blue of the ocean, and so on. The highlight that allowed the collection to get past its humble beginnings was the sheer amount of sequins.

“It’s reminiscent of the 70s,” said Jay Gurley, a TikTok personality and a graduate of the Tisch School of the Arts. “It’s a mixture of disco and old, classic glam, like a fun party.”

Amid a fully sequined suit set—complete with a matching dress and a sequined sash to accentuate the waist—the tulle-sleeved dress that shimmered under the light shone. The luster remained the same throughout the showcase of flowers, starting with green sparkles and ending with a neutral shimmery honey shade. One golden dress with a knot had rhombus details that ran down the back, while other floral appliqués were adorned with glittering seeds in their pistils. Flowers and bows reigned supreme in a variety of ways, from muted pleated bows to tops and sleeves entirely designed in roses and lilies. The drama of detail in even the simplest outfits was worthy of the red carpet, retaining the idea of exclusivity with subtle beadwork, while remaining frankly romantic in silhouettes.

A model walks the runway wearing sparkly turquoise pants and a blazer, sparkling turquoise earrings and turquoise heeled shoes.

A model walks the runway in a sparkly turquoise one-sleeve dress and turquoise heels.

A model walks the runway in a sparkly burgundy dress and black heels.

A model walks the runway in a sparkly pastel purple dress and silver heels.

A model walks the runway in a sparkly pastel orange blazer and trousers, with a champagne bag and champagne shoes.

A model walks the runway in a sparkly pastel purple mini dress, purple fur coat and navy blue heeled shoes.

The essence of the show became apparent in its finale, in a direct appeal to the lifestyle for which the collection exists – a lifestyle in which luxury and extravagance are indispensable. A Swan Lake themed dress in the shape of a bird’s feather swung down the runway and took its place at the black table in the center. Each model, following their owner, slowly descended the catwalk and found a place on the island, stretching their long limbs and looking seductively at the audience. The models encouraged the public to come forward and interact with the artworks, looking down on them as if they were intruders at a cocktail party.