Food eaten in New York and where it comes from

Fabio Parasecoli, one of the curators of the special exhibition “New York Food: More than a Plate” now at the Museum of the City of New York, is giving you a tour.

New York is home to cuisines from all over the world. Name any dish, from the basic Jewish balled matzah soup to the Cantonese siu mai, and you’re likely to find a restaurant that serves it—and it’s of the highest quality.

But have you ever thought about the cultural dynamics of food in New York? Exhibition “Food in New York: more than a plate” will run until fall 2023 at the Museum of the City of New York, located on the Upper East Side. This exhibition showcases the work of 20 contemporary artists and designers that reveal the intricacies of the New York City food system, touching on topics from sustainability and food security to labor justice.

The sub-culinary map, illustrated by Rick Meyerowitz and Myra Kalman, is a sure testament to the variety of cuisine found in every part of this city. Each metro station has been renamed to represent local food, available as soon as you step off the stop. This is by far my favorite part of this exhibit – it casually but surely ties together New York City’s multiethnic web of cultures.

As I stood in awe of the map, I fell in love with two stations, B-Beam and Bop, which, when combined, become a Korean staple: bibimbop, a bowl of rice mix with meat and mixed vegetables. Not only does the dish bring me home, but it accurately represents the city—its ingredients are as unique as the city’s inhabitants.

As co-curator, Fabio Parasecoli of NYU’s Department of Nutrition and Nutritional Research took a group of students on a tour and talked a little more about the creation of the exhibit.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

BSS: What is the movie “Food in New York: More than on the plate” about?

Parasecoli: We wanted visitors to feel more like participants in the food system – not just individualistic consumers, but also part of a collective participation, because there are certain issues that cannot be solved by personal decisions. You need to change the regulation, the policy. We wanted visitors to leave the show with a sense of responsibility for change and innovation. At the same time, we wanted to celebrate food in New York. We wanted to make sure people recognize the variety of food in New York City, from food trucks to gourmet restaurants. We didn’t want to focus on the negatives, we also wanted people to be aware of the positives.

BSS: How did you find a good balance between showing the positive and negative aspects of food production?

Parasecoli: We tried to show both sides of everything. On the one hand, we showed problems with food production. At the same time, we have shown urban farming as a community experience that everyone can connect to. We have a whole window hung with photographs of people who cook for us, who feed us. It was not only concern about problems, but that people felt able to celebrate the good that is.

BSS: What prompted you to bring an exhibition about the cultural dynamics of food to the Museum of the City of New York?

Parasecoli: They wanted to move the London exhibition to New York. Since I was a consultant and advisor in London, I was asked if I would like to help organize an event in New York. Here I was not just an adviser – I became a co-curator. My participation was part of the conceptualization, I even decided where to put parts and text, creating a much more hands-on experience.

BSS: Why should people be more aware of their food and production methods?

Parasecoli: Because food is one of the many aspects that makes us members of the community and members of society. Partly it’s a matter of making sure what you eat is healthy, properly produced, environmentally friendly, and doesn’t exploit people. Many of us in New York are concerned about these questions. If you scratch the surface a little, all these aspects become visible. It is being transformed into a form of responsible citizenship. Citizenship is more than just voting. We all have a stake in this because the food system affects us in terms of policy, regulation, health and the environment.

BSS: How can students participate more actively in and improve the larger food system?

Parasecoli: On a smaller scale, they may participate in a local farm to connect more with their area. There are plenty of food kitchens and food banks, so these are small steps. In addition, you can be a little more careful when preparing food, such as making decisions about what to buy and what to throw away. On a larger scale, you can participate in farmers’ markets such as GrowNYC.

While inviting visitors to be part of the food system, this exhibition also requires us to be part of the community in which we live. Food is one aspect of life that should not be neglected.

Contact Daeung Lee at [email protected]